Epic Halloween QAL, Week 10: Curved Spiderweb Blocks

This week’s block involves some curved piecing! Don’t worry, though, the curves are very gentle, so this is an easy introduction to curves if you’ve never tackled them before. You’ll need 3 blocks that finish at 12″.

Curved Spiderweb Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Click here for the templates.

Trace all the templates onto a piece of template plastic and cut out. If you have the Phillips Simple Curve Ruler you can use it instead of the arc sections on page 3. Trace the dashed line on sections A and B onto your template as well. This is a reference line for trimming.

For one block, you will need to cut 4 each of Background Template A and Background Template B from your background fabric. The gray areas on the template are extra space to give you some leeway to trim accurately later on.

Curved Spiderweb tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

On this block, I wanted to keep the directional background fabric going in the same direction, so I placed the background templates very carefully on my fabric.

It is up to you exactly how to arrange your arc sections—your finished arc size should add up to 5″, so you could, for example, choose five 1″ strips, or two 1 1/2″ strips and a 2″ strip, etc. However you decide to arrange your fabric, you will need to cut 8 of each arc section.

To piece your curved arc sections together, take two arcs:

Curved Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Mark the centers by folding them in half and finger pressing a crease.

Curved Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Place them on top of each other, wrong sides together, like this:

Curved Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Line up the centers you just marked by creasing and place a pin.

Curved Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

If you’re not comfortable with arcs yet, place another pin or two on one side of the arcs, lining up the raw edges.

Curved Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Then, begin sewing with a 1/4″ seam.

Curved Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

After you reach the center pin, you can use your fingers to gently manipulate the raw edges together as you go.

Curved Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts Curved Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Your sewn arcs will look like this.

Curved Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Press the seam towards the lower arc, and that’s your first set done!

Curved Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Continue adding strips as necessary, always aligning the centers of your strips. Repeat for the other eight strip sets, keeping the order of strips consistent among sections. As you get more comfortable with curved piecing, you will probably find that you only need the pin keeping the centers aligned!

Finally, add the bottoms (cut from Background Templates A and B), again keeping the centers of the curves aligned:

Curved Spiderweb tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Place your section A template on top of a pieced section (that contains one of the Background Template A pieces), and line up the curve on the template with the bottom curved seam. Trim.

Curved Spiderweb tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Trim your Section B pieces in the same way.

Sew the long side of a Section A piece to the long side of a Section B piece to complete one quadrant. Repeat for the remaining pairs.Curved Spiderweb tutorial | Flying Parrot QuiltsThen, sew the quadrants together into a full block!

Curved Spiderweb tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Curved Spiderweb Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Post your blocks with the hashtags #epichalloweenqal and #curvedspiderwebblock this week!

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Epic Halloween QAL, Week 9: Barn Bats

This block is based on a traditional block called “Barn Bats.” The bats are typically stacked on top of one another (as in this mini quilt), but this tutorial is for individual bats with one bat per 6 1/2″ block. You’ll want to make 6 blocks for your quilt.

Solo Barn Bat Block | Flying Parrot Quilts

Start by cutting your fabrics. From the background fabric, cut:

  • 1 strip 2 1/2″ x 17″
  • 1 strip 1 1/2″ x 15″

From the main bat fabric cut:

  • 1 strip 2 1/2″ x 12″

Starting with the background fabric, fold your strips in half lengthwise.

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Take your wider 2 1/2″ strip, and, starting at the raw ends, line up your ruler’s 60-degree line with the top of the strip and trim.

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Line up the edge that you just cut with the 3 1/2″ line on your ruler and cut. (I rotated my fabric for easier cutting.)

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Then, cut 2 1/2″ pieces in the same way.

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Next, take your 1 1/2″ strip and trim the ends to 60 degrees as before.

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

From this strip, cut two 2″ pieces.

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

And two 3 1/2″ pieces.

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Next, take your bat fabric strip, and fold it in half also.

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Make a 60-degree cut as before:

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Then, cut two 2 1/2″ pieces:

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

And two 1 1/2″ pieces:

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

This is how your bat will fit together. The narrow (1 1/2″) short pieces go above and the wide (2 1/2″) short pieces go below the bat:

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Sew your strips together. In order for the edges to line up when sewing 60 degree angles, the corners should overhang slightly. The inside corners formed from the overlap of the two patches should line up with your seam line.

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Press seams towards the bat, except on one of the narrow strips. This will let you nest the seams and line up the center strips nicely. Sew the two narrow center strips together.

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Take your ruler and make a mark 1″ down from the tops of the bat ears on both sides of the center strip.

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Line these marks up with the seams on your bat wings, and sew the two side strips to the center.

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Your bat should now look like this, and all that is left is to trim it!

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Trim the block down to 6 1/2″ square. I like to line up the top of the bat ears with the 1″ mark to get the bat nice and centered in the block.

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Post your finished bat blocks with the hashtag #epichalloweenqal!

Bat Block Tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

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Epic Halloween QAL, Week 8: Eyeballs

It’s time for a field trip over to Happy Sew Lucky for a tutorial on making spooky eyeballs! The tutorial is for 12 1/2″ blocks, and you’ll need a 6 1/2″ and a 9 1/2″ square (unfinished) block for this quilt, so keep that in mind as you think about sizes for your eyes. There are lots of options for you to choose from!

eyeballsheader1

Image used by permission of Happy Sew Lucky

Here are the two blocks I made for my quilt.

9 1/2″ square (for reference, each eyeball is 3″ wide in this block):

Eyeball block | Flying Parrot Quilts

I did a little bit of fussy cutting for the pupils, so that there is a scary skull “reflection” in them.

6 1/2″ block (each eye is 1 1/2″ wide):

eyes 2 web

Easy peasy! Please tag this week’s blocks with #eyeballsquilt in addition to our usual hashtag #epichalloweenqal. Next week, we make some more bats!

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Epic Halloween QAL, Week 7: Midnight Bite

This week is the last really intense paper piecing pattern! We are making bats from the fantastic “Midnight Bite” pattern by Nicole of Lily Ella Stitchery. Grab your pattern here if you don’t have it yet.

You will need to tape some foundation pieces together following the instructions in the pattern. Again, please be sure to use masking, painter’s, or washi tape instead of scotch tape so that you don’t end up with a melted mess on your iron!

Large Bat | Flying Parrot Quilts

We’ll be making all three sizes of bats, but there are some slight size adjustments to make on a couple of the blocks. The large block fits into our quilt nicely as is. The medium block will need to be trimmed down to 9½” x 15½”. Just trim ½” off each of the short sides.

Medium Bat | Flying Parrot Quilts

The small bat is sized 10″ x 6″, and would be easier to fit into the quilt if it were 12″ wide, so we need to add an inch to either side.

Find sections D and E, and line up the one-inch mark on your ruler with the outer (dashed) line.

Resizing tutorial | Flying Parrot Quilts

Notice how the 1 inch mark is lined up with the OUTER edge. Be careful!

Draw a line to indicate your new block boundaries.

Resizing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Then, just extend all the piecing lines to your new boundary!

Resizing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Draw in the finished block boundary 1/4″ inch away from the outside edge. This way, you still have those points for purposes of joining sections.

resizing 4

Repeat for sections I and J on the other side of the bat. You may have to tape on a little extra paper.

And that’s how you extend the background on the small bat!

Small Bat | Flying Parrot Quilts

I loved using some of my metallic fabrics for the bat wings—it made them shimmery and ethereal!

Tag your bat blocks with the pattern hashtag #midnightbitepattern and the quilt-along hashtag #epichalloweenqal!

 

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Epic Halloween QAL, Week 6: Variable Potion Blocks

This week we’re bottling fame, brewing glory, even putting a stopper on death piecing Variable Potion Blocks, so called because you have lots of options on what size to make your potion blocks. These potions are also a great place to show off some more fussy cuts.

Variable Potion Blocks | Flying Parrot Quilts

4 tall potions (12″ x 6″). Potion Inception on the right!

The paper piecing pattern is here. For this quilt, you’ll need four different blocks:

  • 6” x 6” (two short potions)
  • 9” x 6” (three short potions)
  • 12” x 6” (four short potions)
  • 6” x 9” (two tall potions)
Variable Potion Blocks | Flying Parrot Quilts

3 short potions (9″ x 6″)

Full instructions are in the pattern, but here are just a couple of hints. First, how full the potion bottles are is merely a suggestion. To change the levels of your potions, just change the position of the line between sections 1 and 2, like I did here with a red pen:

Variable Potion Bottles | Flying Parrot Quilts

For the four-potion block, you will need two center pieces for the tops and bottles for the four-potion block.

Variable Potion Bottles | Flying Parrot Quilts

You will need to insert one additional potion neck section into the existing three-potion neck section.

Variable Potion Bottles | Flying Parrot Quilts

Begin by cutting along the red dashed line.

Variable Potion Bottles | Flying Parrot Quilts

Stick some tape (washi or masking tape—remember, scotch tape melts! 🙂 ) on the back of one of the sections, like this:

Variable Potion Bottles | Flying Parrot Quilts

And carefully line up your pieces. You may want to use a ruler to check that the horizontal lines stay straight. Repeat for the other side.

Variable Potion Bottles | Flying Parrot Quilts

Your finished section should look like this.

Variable Potion Bottles | Flying Parrot Quilts

 

Here are the rest of my potion bottles:

Variable Potion Blocks | Flying Parrot Quilts

2 tall potions (6″ x 9″)

Variable Potion Blocks | Flying Parrot Quilts

2 short potions (6″ x 6″)

Are you a potions master, or did stitching these blocks make your cauldron melt into an unrecognizable heap? Post your creations on social media with #epichalloweenqal.

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Epic Halloween QAL, Week 5: Ring of Coffins

Happy Independence Day to all my American readers! I hope thinking of Halloween helps you survive the heat!

This week’s block is “Ring of Coffins” by Jessee Maloney of Art School Dropout, and I think it’s one of the most inventive Halloween blocks I’ve ever seen! Jessee’s original block is sized to make an 18” block; I reduced this to fit on a 15” block. If you prefer to make it full size, you’ll have to do some reshuffling of blocks to make it fit into the final quilt layout. To reduce the pattern to fit on a 15 1/2” unfinished block, set your printer scaling to 85%. (This means you’ll have a little less than the specified ½” seam allowance, but that should still be plenty for EPP.)

Jessee has very kindly agreed to let you in on all her tips and tricks for putting this block together, so please head over to Jessee’s blog to read all about her secrets!

Coffin block | Flying Parrot Quilts

This block is a great one to work on throughout the remainder of the quilt-along, adding to your little pile of coffins as you generate scraps from all the other paper piecing.

Here are a couple of links to general English Paper Piecing tutorials, if this is a new-to-you technique.

Video tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDrTVi0jk6w
Photo tutorial: http://www.thezenofmaking.com/2013/06/tutorial-english-paper-piecing-hexies-part-1/

Tag these blocks with #ringofcoffins and #epichalloweenqal to share your progress with everyone!

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Epic Halloween QAL, Week 4: Cauldron & Potion Bottle

If you haven’t yet recovered from making three spiders, this week should give you a breather and allow you to catch up! This week we are making two more paper pieced blocks, both freely available from the lovely folks at Fandom In Stitches, and in particular the Harry Potter section (check them all out in case you find one you really want to include in your quilt!).

Cauldron block

Potion bottle

These blocks are sized to be 5” finished, so we need to resize them to 6” finished. Check out this excellent tutorial on how to resize any block! In this case, we need to print the blocks at 120%. You can also just resize the block by adding a ½” border (1” cut strips) on all sides. This is essentially what I did for the cauldron block.

Much of the fun of this quilt is in the fabric placement, and this week’s blocks are the first good opportunity for some strategic fabric placement. Spiders are the main ingredient in the potion bubbling away in my cauldron in the forest!

Cauldron | Flying Parrot Quilts

Here is my potion. It’s a little different from the pattern, because I tried used curved piecing for the bottom section. I thought that would be easier, but the fiddling around trying to get sections to line up wasn’t worth it, so I’d recommend just sticking with the pattern! You can omit some of the really tiny pieces (e.g. 2 and 3 in section B or 3 and 9 in Section D) if you’d prefer.

Potion bottle | Flying Parrot Quilts

Let’s see your progress! Tag your photos with #epichalloweenqal.

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Epic Halloween QAL, Week 3: Spooky Spiders

This week we start with some of the larger paper pieced blocks—it’s spider time! If you don’t have your pattern yet, get it here. Stick with me as we talk about the block measurements; I’ve got a tip for cutting your background fabrics at the end of the post. If you’ve not made a pattern that requires multiple sections to be joined before, my paper piecing guide here covers how to pin them together to get the best alignment.

The pattern includes three sizes: 16″, 12″, and 8″ finished. Trim down the large block to 15 1/2″ (unfinished)—there is plenty of background so you won’t get too close to the spider itself by doing that.

Large Spooky Spider | Flying Parrot Quilts

Aragog the Large

This largest spider requires you to tape together your pattern pieces B, C, E, and F. Word to the wise: use masking tape, painter’s tape, or washi tape. Scotch tape melts under the heat of your iron and makes a mess!

Shelob (medium, 12 1/2″ unfinished) fits perfectly into the quilt top.

Medium Spooky Spider | Flying Parrot Quilts

Shelob the Medium

The small size is 8 1/2″ unfinished, and needs a bit of an adjustment. This spider fits into the quilt in this odd section:

odd section | Flying Parrot Quilts

I had a 4 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ fussy cut haunted house (from the “Ghastlies” line by Alexander Henry) that I wanted to include in this section. If you want to use a piece of fabric this size, piece your spider as directed in the pattern, then add a 1 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ strip of background fabric at the top:

adding top strip | Flying Parrot Quilts

If you’d rather stick to the 3″ x 3″ grid layout, in which case you can add extra candy corn, witches’ hats, or a potion bottle in the remaining slot, you’ll want to size up your spider to 9″ finished. To do this, simply print the small spider pattern with your printer scaling set to 112%. Please be aware that this will make your seam allowances a little larger, too, so you’ll want to use a ruler to square the block up to 9 1/2 x 9 1/2″ at the end rather than relying just on the outside line. Also, if your top seam allowance line bleeds off the edge of the page, just redraw it 1/4″ from the block edge using one of your rulers.

Small Spooky Spider | Flying Parrot Quilts

Charlotte the Small

There are a number of large-ish background fabric pieces in this pattern. Here’s a little tutorial on how to cut your background pieces to minimize fabric waste. (This tip will come in handy for the bat pattern later, too!)

Since the two halves of the spider are mirror images of one another, you’ll need mirrored background pieces. Fold your fabric in half and place Section F in the corner:

Fabric Cutting for Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

We will start with piece 13, the bottom corner piece. Fold the template back along one of the seam lines:

Fabric Cutting for Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

 

Using an appropriate marking tool, trace the line about ½” away (to account for seam allowance)

Fabric Cutting for Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Repeat with the other seam line(s) of piece 13: fold back, then trace along the line, leaving room for seam allowance.

Fabric Cutting for Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

If you like, you can go ahead and cut out the piece you’ve already marked. Cut through both layers, then pin a note to the pieces to remind yourself where they belong. In this case, because you’ve folded the fabric right side out, the bottom piece will be for section F, and the top piece will be for the mirror-image section C.

To move on to the next piece (in this case, 14—the order in which the pieces are sewn is not important for this!), shift your paper up so that the fold line is now about 1/2″ on the other side of your drawn line.

Fabric Cutting for Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Then, follow the line about 1/2″ from the edge of the paper.

Fabric Cutting for Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

This way, we don’t waste fabric in between all those weird angles.

Fabric Cutting for Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Continue with sections E and then D, tracing the pieces in the approximate configuration in which they’ll be sewn.

As a final reminder, when placing your fabrics, don’t skip folding the paper back! This really helps a lot with placement, particularly when you’ve pre-cut your fabrics close to the size of the final piece.

Tag your finished spiders with #epichalloweenqal and #spookyspiderpattern!

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Epic Halloween QAL, Week 2: Candy Corn & Witch Hats

As you might have realized, we’re going to be doing a lot of paper piecing for this quilt. So, I thought we’d start with some simple blocks to ease you into it if you’re new to paper piecing, or if it’s just been a while since you used the technique.

Our first blocks are candy corn and witches’ hats. I used 4 candy corn blocks and 2 witch hat blocks in my quilt. (Weird colored candy corn, that is. I don’t know what flavor this is, but I’m sure it tastes terrible.)

Mini Halloween Blocks | Flying Parrot Quilts

When printing paper piecing patterns, you always want to make sure to set your printer scaling to 100%, or “Do Not Scale.” Most patterns will provide you with a size test square. Make sure to measure this block and confirm that it is the indicated size—if it isn’t, check your printer settings and try again.

After printing your pattern, cut roughly around the block.

Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Take a piece of fabric that is big enough to cover the section marked A1 and allow for about 1/4″ of seam allowances around all sides, and pin it to the first section with the wrong side facing the paper.

Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Then, fold the paper back along the line between sections A1 and A2.

Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

With the paper still folded back, place a piece of fabric large enough to cover section A2 (plus seam allowances) on top of piece 1, right sides together. (You can’t tell here because I’m using batiks which have no right or wrong sides.) Make sure that the fabric covers section A2 and there is enough overhang for seam allowances. Holding everything up to a window often helps!

Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Leaving the fabric in place, fold back the paper and stitch along the marked line between sections 1 and 2, starting and ending about 1/4″ past the line, and using a slightly reduced stitch length. (I just hold the fabric in place with my fingers, but you could pin if you are not comfortable with that.)

Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Fold the paper back again and trim down the seam allowance to 1/4″ with a ruler and rotary cutter or with scissors.

Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Open up your paper and press piece A2 into place with your iron. (I forgot to take a picture of this, but you can see it in the next photo.)

Now, fold down the paper along the line between pieces A2 and A3, and place your fabric so that it covers A3 well while folded back. Again, your fabrics should be placed with right sides together.

Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Fold the paper back and stitch along the marked line, then trim your seam allowance and press piece A3 into place.

When moving to piece A4, you will have to pull the stitching in the seam allowance away from the paper carefully in order to fold the paper back.

Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Place your first background piece, then fold the paper back and stitch.

Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Remember to start stitching before the line.

Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Continue until all pieces have been sewn. Your block will look like this:

Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

Using a ruler and your rotary cutter, trim through the fabric and the paper on the outside line.

Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

This is what your finished candy corn block will look like!

Paper Piecing | Flying Parrot Quilts

The witch’s hat block is just as easy—follow the same steps, paying attention to the order of the fabrics!

A word of advice to the less experienced paper piecers out there: when I first started using this technique, folding back the paper all the time seemed like a waste of time, and I decided to skip it. This led to endless frustration in fabric pieces not covering the paper sections properly, and having to rip out seams with a reduced stitch length is not fun. Don’t skip this step—I still have to rip occasionally, but it’s a lot less frequent since I learned my lesson and started folding the paper back!

Paper piecing can generate quite a few small scraps.  I recommend that, even if you are scrap-averse in your normal quilting life, you hold on to all but your truly unusable scraps for the time being. There’s a lot of paper piecing in this quilt, and you will have plenty of opportunities to use small pieces in the weeks to come!

Please share your progress on this quilt-along on social media using the hashtag #epichalloweenqal!

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Welcome to the Epic Halloween Quilt-Along, Week 1!

Welcome to the Epic Halloween Quilt quilt-along! I’m so touched by all the love you guys have been heaping on this quilt on Instagram, and I’m excited to see everyone else’s take on it!

Epic Halloween Quilt Top | Flying Parrot Quilts

There are a lot of blocks to cover, so I’m planning for a 12-week quilt-along. That’ll give you a finished top by the end of the summer, with two months left to finish any blocks you might have missed, and of course for quilting and binding in time for the big day, Halloween! Here’s the schedule:

Week 1: Gathering your fabrics and patterns
Week 2: Candy Corn and Witches’ Hats
Week 3: Spooky Spider
Week 4: Cauldron & another Potion (from Fandom In Stitches)
Week 5: Ring of Coffins pattern (from Art School Dropout)
Week 6: Variable Potions
Week 7: Midnight Bite pattern (from Lilly Ella Stitchery)
Week 8: Eyeballs (from Happy Sew Lucky)
Week 9: Barn Bats
Week 10: Curved Spiderwebs
Week 11: Broomstick and Haunted House
Week 12: Filler Blocks & Quilt Assembly

This is a fairly ambitious line-up, and depending on how limited your sewing time is, don’t worry if you fall behind; these posts aren’t going anywhere! Just make sure you grab your patterns. I’ve tried to alternate between harder and easier weeks to give you a chance to catch up.

This week is for preparing yourself for the epic-ness to come! You’ll find a list of the fabrics I used, in case you’re wanting to purchase some specifically for this quilt. Most of the Halloween fabrics should still be around and reasonably easy to find.

Patterns

The quilt uses patterns from several different sources, along with the ones you’ll find here over the course of the quilt-along. The base grid for this quilt is a 3″ x 3″ grid (with one small exception), so we will be resizing some of these patterns a little.

You’ll need to purchase:

Midnight Bite by Nicole of Lilly Ella Stitchery
Nicole has very kindly offered 20% off on her pattern for those of you participating in the quilt-along. Use code FPQAL on Payhip, good through the end of June!

Ring of Coffins by Jessee of Art School Dropout

Spooky Spider—on sale for 20% off for the duration of the quilt-along on Craftsy or PatternSpot

Free for the duration of this quilt-along:

Haunted House
Broomstick
Variable potions

Free:

Candy Corn and Witch Hat
Cauldron (from www.fandominstitches.net)
Potion (from www.fandominstitches.net)
Eyeballs by Happy Sew Lucky

Other materials: A sheet of template plastic is useful for the curved spiderweb blocks. I used the Phillips Simple Curves Ruler for those blocks; if you plan to make a lot of these blocks in the future you may want to consider investing in one.

Fabrics

This quilt is fairly scrappy and great for using up various Halloween fabrics you’ve got floating around. If you’d like to purchase fabrics specifically for it, I recommend purchasing half yards of large-scale prints and quarter yards or fat quarters of the smaller-scale prints. For the Halloween-themed fabrics, this is approximately what I used for the quilt top.

Cotton and Steel, Spellbound:

  • Doily Web in Gray – ½ yard
  • Skull Dot in Metallic Black – ½ yard
  • Haunted Forest in Grey, Lilac, and Coral; Skull Dot in Metallic Mint; Mummy Dance in Mint and Grey; Elixir in Grey – ¼ yard/fat quarter each

Alexander Henry, Ghastlies:

  • ½ yard each of A Ghastlie Web in gray and pink
  • Scraps of The Ghastlies in Smoke

Jen Allyson for Riley Blake, Lost and Found Halloween:

  • Newsprint in Cream (fat quarter)
  • Halloween Spiders in Cream (fat quarter)

Lizzy House, Guising (now reissued as part of her Whisper Palette Collection):

  • Ghosty Ghost in Light Grey (fat quarter)

Chillingsworth’s Spooky Ride

  • Skeletons in Tan (fat quarter)
Filler block | Flying Parrot Quilts

Newsprint in Cream. I couldn’t bear to cut this up! Clearly inspired by Harry Potter, but I particularly like the ad for Damart The Great’s Spell Casting Services.

I supplemented these with coordinating non-Halloween fabrics from my stash. The dusty rose and lilac colors can be hard to match, but some of Alison Glass’ older Sun Prints are a dusty lilac and match well; I used two quarter yards of these. Some of the other non-Halloween fabrics I used were:

  • Jennifer Sampou, Shimmer (used primarily for bat wings and potion bottles)
  • Janet Clare, The Wordsmith (fat quarters of Ink and Quill, 1395 13 and 1396 12, respectively)
  • Solids in black and dark grey

To break up the busy pieced blocks, I scattered plain blocks throughout. If you have any sections of your fabric that you can’t bear to cut up or want to fussy cut, go ahead and set those aside. Otherwise, we’ll deal with these at the end.

  • 6 – 6½” x 6½” squares
  • 1 – 12½” x 12½” square
  • 1 – 6½” x 9½” rectangle
  • 1 – 3½” x 9½” rectangle
  • 1 – 4½” x 6½” rectangle

That’s it for this week! If you have any questions, post them in the comments and I’ll answer them for all to see. Next week, we’ll start with some simple paper-pieced blocks to ease you into paper piecing if you haven’t done any in a while.

Please post your progress shots for this quilt on social media with the hashtag #epichalloweenqal!

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